| Q: I'm working on a new hair color system and need to create a quick and easy formulation, what do you suggest? |
| A: To create an elegant and highly effective hair color tint- try KeraTint EZ as the complete emulsifying and conditioning system to create quick and easy permanent hair colors. See Formulation HP-278 and HP-279 for a starting formulation. |
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| Q: What products do you have for hair color tints? |
A: Croda is able to offer a variety of emulsifier systems for Hair Color Tints.
1) Crodafos HCE- Croda's Hair Color Enhancer for use in all hair color tints. This emulsifier will help to create formulations that contain multi-layer lamellar structures and have been shown to increase the intensity of red hair dyes, promote rapid hair color development and maintain color longer through shampooing. Recommended for gels and high water content tints.
2) KeraTint EZ- Croda's answer to simplify the creation of hair tint formulations! This easy-to-use pastille is a one-step conditioning and emulsifying package for hair color creams. It has been proven to extend the life of black hair color creams on gray hair.
3) Crodafos CES- Croda's original pH stable phosphate ester designed to aid in the delivery of "actives" such as hair dyes. This emulsifier can be used in hair color creams.
4) Crodafos CS-20 Acid: Croda's 2nd generation phosphate ester emulsifier. It can help to make thinner emulsions and will also aid in delivery of hair color. It is the emulsifier of choice for peroxide developer see BW-37.
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| Q: Which cationic quaternary will soften the hair? |
| A: CRODAZOSOFT DBQ is Croda's hair softener quat! Proven to increase softness of hair 3 times more than behentrimonium chloride. |
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| Q: What is recommended usage level of Crodazosoft DBQ? |
| A: Most of the studies completed on Crodazosoft DBQ were run at 1.5% active which is about 2.15% of Crodazosoft DBQ in your formulation. It can be used anywhere from 0.5% to 5% in the formulation depending on the other quats and conditioning agents that are present in your formulation. |
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| Q: Do you have thickeners suitable for acidic cleaners? |
| A: Crodamet O-2 can effectively thicken hydrochloric acid based products as well as organic acid based cleaners. Several prototype formulations are available. |
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Q: Why isn't Polawax in the CTFA dictionary?
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A: Polawax is monographed in the National Formulary as Emulsifying Wax NF. The CTFA acknowledges this nomenclature as acceptable for labeling purposes and has stated that an INCI name is therefore unnecessary. The monograph can be found in the NF section at the back of the USP24/NF19 on page 2536. It is listed under the W's for Wax; the monograph is titled "Emulsifying Wax".
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Q: Do you do animal testing?
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A: No, we do not!
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Q: Do you have any mild surfactants?
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A: Croda offers a wide range of specialty surfactants including a series of mild anionics that lack the undesirable stripping effects of primary surfactants. Just click on our Home Page's Search button and go to the Product Database for a description of the following Croda products: Adinol CT-95 (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate), and the Crodasinic range (Sarcosines and Sarcosinates).
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Q: What can you use to thicken surfactant systems such as shampoos and body washes?
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A: A very common method is to add salt but it is never fool proof because of the tendency to overshoot the salt curve and quickly loose viscosity. Crothix and Crothix Liquid are high performance thickeners designed for aqueous surfactant systems and are one of the most cost-effective means of thickening shampoos. In a surfactant blend with Crodasinic LS-30 or Crosultaine C-50, they are also effective DEA replacements. Crothix and Crothix Liquid can also thicken sarcosinates, a unique feature for thickeners. Further information on these products can be found by clicking on our Home Page's Search button and going to the Product Database.
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Q: Do you have a protein for use in pigmented makeup?
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A: Yes, HYDROTRITICUM PVP and TRITISOL or TRITISOL XM are excellent film formers for mascara. HYDROTRITICUM PVP is a resin-like hydrolyzed wheat protein. The TRITISOLS are high molecular weight wheat proteins. CROSILK POWDER (Silk Powder) absorbs oil, improves leveling and modifies the application properties of solid make-up systems.
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Q: Do you have an alcohol soluble protein?
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A: HYDROTRITICUM PVP and CROTEIN ADW are recommended for hydroalcoholic systems. HYDROTRITICUM PVP is a resin-like hydrolyzed wheat protein. CROTEIN ADW is a fatty acid condensate of Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
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Q: What quats are best for improving wet/dry combing?
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A: Hair is 'happiest' when it is hydrophobic, so the more fatty or lipophilic the quat is, the more likely it is to improve the hair's combing properties. Croda has a wide range of high-performance quats, many of which are based on novel chemistry. Recommended for both wet and dry combing: INCROQUAT BEHENYL 18-MEA, a derivative of the primary lipid of the hair, helps replenish lost lipids in the hair to make it more hydrophobic and less susceptible to surface damage. Recommended for wet combing: Known as The Great Detangler, INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS (Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol) is the Industry choice for wet combing.
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Q: Do you have anionic compatible quats?
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A: Yes, Croda offers several anionic compatible or water soluble quats: Crodasorb UV-HPP, Incroquat 18-MEA-40, Incroquat 26, Incroquat Behenyl HE, Incroquat UV-283 and Incroquat HO80-PG (water dispersible), all of which are suitable for use in shampoos or 2-in-1 products.
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Q: What does substantivity mean?
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A: Substantivity is a phenomenon by which materials with opposing charges or like compositions to a substrate (i.e., hair or skin) are more readily adsorbed onto or attracted to its surface, and once there, are resistant to subsequent rinse-off. Hair is primarily composed of keratin protein and lipids and is most receptive( substantive) to materials like itself. Proteins and quaternary ammonium compounds that contain a hydrophobic (fatty alkyl) group in the cation meet this criteria. Another aspect of substantivity is that of opposing electrostatic charges. The complex protein of the hair fiber contains chemical groups that are electrostatically charged. The overall charge they carry is thought to be slightly negative. (Skin is also thought to have a net negative charge.) Quaternary ammonium compounds always carry a positive charge. Due to the opposing charges, the negative sites on the hair are attracted to the positive cation of the quaternary enabling it to attach itself to the hair fiber and remain on the surface. The positively charged cation makes the whole molecule substantive, causing the attached fatty chain to also adsorb onto the hair surface. It is the presence of this fatty moiety and its hydrophobic properties that account for the high lubricity of quats. Proteins are amphoteric molecules with both negatively and positively charged sites. Proteins are substantive since hair is attracted to their many negative sites. These electrostatic attractions are stronger on damaged or chemically treated hair since it is believed to have more negative sites. This increase in negative charge is primarily due to an increase in cysteic acid in the hair fiber. Cysteic acid is a derivative of cysteine and forms when disulfide bonds are broken and not completely reformed as such.
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Q: Do you have quats with emulsifying properties?
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A: Many of our quats have emulsifying properties, such as Incroquat Behenyl 18-MEA, Crodazosoft DBQ, Incroquat Behenyl TMS, and Incroquat HO-80PG. Incroquat CR Concentrate and Incroquat OSC are one-step conditioning bases.
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Q: Do you have a conditioner for sheen?
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A: Film-forming materials smooth the cuticle and give hair sheen. The following Croda products are recommended for sheen: Proteins-Crodasone W, Hydrotriticum PVP, Keratec IFP, Tritisol and Tritisol XM; Quaternaries-Incroquat 18-MEA-40, and Crodazosoft DBQ; emollients-Crodamol AB, Crodamol CAP, Crodamol OHS and OS, Cropure Avocado, Cropure Olive, and Cropure Wheat Germ.
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Q: What is the best viscosity for a hair relaxer?
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A: Because of the high alkalinity of relaxer systems, it is important that the emulsion be of high viscosity so that the cream does not drip or run during application. What is more important is the rheology of the relaxer, meaning how it behaves on application. While emulsion stability is clearly vital to any system, over-stability can be a detriment, especially in the case of relaxers. Emulsions that are too stable do not experience a decrease in viscosity upon shear and produce overly stiff relaxer creams that are unyielding on application. Our Crodafos CES phosphate-based emulsifying system displays shear thinning during relaxer manufacture and produces thixotropic emulsions that break on application, enabling the relaxer to enhance oil deposition on the hair and reduce the damage sustained by the cuticle. Milling the emulsion is also critical to establish the final viscosity of the system. More importantly, milling uniformly distributes the actives, reduces the particle size of the emulsion, and improves the final stability of the product.
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Q: Do you have quaternaries that are stable in high pH systems like relaxers or hair dyes?
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A: Incroquat Behenyl HE Incroquat HO-80PG and Incroquat Behenyl TMS are stable in high pH systems. In Crodafos CES hair relaxers, Incroquat Behenyl HE has been found to enhance the phase inversion of the emulsion, as well as the conditioning properties of the relaxer cream. Incroquat HO-80PG has been used successfully in a nonoxynol-free hair dye formula. Incroquat Behenyl TMS has been the preferred choice of conditioners in relaxers for many years.
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Q: Do you have an emulsifier that is stable in low pH systems like AHAs and hydrogen peroxide color developers?
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A: Crodafos CS-20 Acid is effective as an emulsifier for hydrogen peroxide bases (BW-37) and produces a smooth, shiny lotion-type emulsion that displays consistent viscosity and pH stability over time. (Please see formulation SC-309-1, Milky Moisturizing Body Spray.) Due to its acid nature, Crodafos CS-20 Acid is also compatible with the color co-mixture. Crodafos CS-20 Acid can also be used for low pH alpha or beta-hydroxy acid systems ( Beta Hydroxy Acid Cream with Crodafos CS-20 Acid SC-308). The product is also able to emulsify Salicylic Acid which can be hard to work with due to its low pH, high electrolyte concentration and minimal solubility.
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Q: What conditioner do you recommend for color-treated hair?
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A: Hair that is color-treated or otherwise damaged may be deficient in 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA), the primary lipid found at the hair surface. Incroquat Behenyl 18-MEA is a fatty quat based on 18-MEA and is designed to replenish the lipids lost at the hair surface. For added protection against color-fade, Sederma's Heliogenol is also recommended. Heliogenol is an herbal extract that acts as a hair color stabilizer by neutralizing the oxidative radicals generated with daily UV exposure and by slowing down the oxidation of hair dyes. The result is more vibrant, longer-lasting color.
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Q: Do you sell sunscreens?
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A: No, Croda does not carry Category I sunscreen actives, but we do offer functional sun co-protectors that can enhance sunscreen activity or offer alternative modes of protection not available from conventional sunscreen agents. For instance, sunscreen filters do not guard against certain biological effects of sunlight, such as immuno-suppression. Croda's Crodarom Avocado HS80, an 80% active extract of Avocado Sterols, has been proven to reduce the skin's inflammatory response to UVB radiation. Studies have shown that Crodarom Avocado HS80 initiates a down-regulation in the production of pro-inflammatory mediators being released on exposure to UVB radiation. These ameliorating effects may help reduce the degree of UV damage to the skin and delay the onset of sun-related aging. Croda offers Cromoist CM Glucan, a water soluble Glucan derivative that can increase the skin's resistance to UV-induced oxidative stress, protect skin from other environmental hazards, and restore skin function. The material is not an anti-oxidant itself but instead protects skin against anti-oxidant depletion. Crodafos CES is a phosphate-based conditioning and emulsifying system that improves sunscreen performance by enhancing the delivery of the sunscreen agent and improving wash-off resistance. Clinical testing has shown that Crodafos CES boosts SPF by as much as 20% The increased SPF values are directly related to the characteristics of the CES emulsion-its greater oil deposition, natural substantivity to skin, and lower tendency to spread. For hair care, Croda offers Incroquat UV-283 and Crodasorb UV-HPP, quaternized UV absorbers proven to prevent UV-B-induced cuticle damage in all types of hair--virgin, bleached, gray, black and relaxed African hair. Performance data show that the two UV absorbers help preserve the natural hydrophobicity and fiber strength of hair, prevent it from discoloration, and improve combing. Heliogenol, a natural herbal extract from Sederma, protects hair from color loss by neutralizing the oxidative radicals generated by daily UV exposure. Helioguard 365 is also a natural UVA protector derived from sea algae.
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Q: Do you have sunscreen formulas? Do you test them for SPF?
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A: Yes, formulas include the following: SC-255, SC-258, SC-260, SC-273, SC-277, SC-284, SC-285, SC-287, SC-291, and SC-312. The sunscreen formulations we currently produce all undergo SPF testing before they are issued. SPF values are included with the formula.
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Q: Do you have esters that are compatible with silicone, i.e., cyclomethicone, dimethicone?
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A: All Croda's liquid esters (Crodamols and Cromollients) are compatible with cyclomethicone. Crodamol OS, Crodamol ISNP, Crodamol LGE, Crodamol PTIS are compatible with dimethicone. Crodamol STS, known as "Superior to Silicone", is a multifunctional emollient ester that provides all of the benefits of silicone and much more. Stabilizes emulsions, enhances gloss/shine, solubilizes sunscreens, and eliminates whitening/soaping.
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Q: Do you have a product that can emulsify large quantities of silicone?
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A: Yes, Incroquat Behenyl TMS can emulsify silicone up to 50%. Crodamol STS can replace all or part of the silicone in formulations which are not inherently stable thereby improving stability while keeping the same feel.
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Q: When I formulate a relaxer with Crodafos CES, at what point will I observe phase inversion?
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A: Once the water and oil phases have been homogenized (sans the alkali) and the temperature has fallen to 65-70ºC, a side-sweeping blade is used as the emulsion cools. At 40-50ºC, the Crodafos CES emulsion begins to show signs of separation and inversion. As the temperature falls further, the emulsion appears cottage cheese-like. This is normal, as it is exactly what the emulsion is designed to do as it cools down. The emulsion experiences this before the addition of the sodium hydroxide and reforms itself after the base has been added. What is occurring here reflects the dual action of the alkali in the Crodafos CES system. Unlike its role in conventional relaxers, the alkali acts, not only as the active ingredient, but also as a base to neutralize Crodafos CES. It is this in situ neutralization that triggers reformation of the emulsion. While the emulsion is likely to go through yet another stage of separation in the course of cooling down, it ultimately comes together, forming a very stable, elegant system that is completely intact, yet thixotropic in nature.
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Q: Do all Crodafos CES emulsions undergo phase inversion?
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A: No, this only occurs when there is a high oil phase, as in the case of hair relaxers or w/o creams or lotions.
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Q: Is Crodafos CES compatible with quats?
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A: Yes. Phosphate esters are technically anionic, but function more like nonionics. Since their negative charge is hidden, they are considered 'crypto-anionic'. As a result, Crodafos CES is compatible with most cationics. In fact, it is even enhanced by our Incroquat Behenyl HE which works synergistically with Crodafos CES in relaxers to improve the phase inversion, and confer conditioning effects.
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Q: Can Crodafos CES be used in a shampoo?
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A: Crodafos CES is recommended for 2-in-1 shampoos.
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Q: Do you have a quat that can be used in clear systems?
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A: Incroquat Behenyl HE and Incroquat 18-MEA-40 can both be used in clear shampoos and conditioners. They are not only compatible with anionics, but are clearly soluble. Incroquat Behenyl HE is a naturally derived, 50% active mono-alkyl amidoamine quaternary.
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Q: Do you have an emulsifier for low viscosity, pourable emulsions like liquid foundations?
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A: Crodafos CS20 Acid was specifically developed to provide formulators with a means of producing pourable-type emulsions, especially those with high-active loads. Crodafos CS20 Acid is ideal for liquid foundations since it also enhances the dispersing and delivery of the oil soluble pigments. It is also recommended for other medium to low viscosity systems like after-shower/body sprays or milks.
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Q: Do you have an emulsifier that also acts as a vehicle for delivering actives?
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A: Crodafos CES and Crodafos CS20 Acid are complete emulsifying systems designed to act as vehicles for enhanced oil deposition and fast delivery of actives. They both possess unique emulsifying properties and form emulsions that are thixotropic, meaning the emulsion yields to shear, allowing it to break on application and release the active components contained within the system. Of the two, Crodafos CES produces higher viscosity emulsions and is recommended for hair relaxers and other cream-type products. Crodafos CS20 Acid produces more fluid emulsions and is recommended for liquid foundations and other products of low-to-medium viscosity. As phosphate-based emulsifiers, Crodafos CES and Crodafos CS20 Acid are also naturally substantive to hair and skin.
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Q: Do you have wetting agents for pigments?
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A: Cromollient DP3A is a novel diester emollient that provides superior pigment wetting, alone and as an ester blend. Studies using mica dispersions have shown that Cromollient DP3A works synergistically to enhance the pigment wetting properties of other esters. In some instances this has been as much as a tenfold improvement! Crodamol OS and Crodamol LGE provide high pigment wetting for dimethicone-coated pigments like TiO2 or ZnO. Crodamol ISNP and Crodamol PTIS display excellent pigment wetting in both mica and TiO2 dispersions.
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| Q: Why are some INCI names on your data sheets different from what is in the CTFA dictionary? |
A: Whenever we introduce a new product, we submit an INCI name to the CTFA and include this nomenclature on the data sheet, indicating that it is proposed. In most cases, this becomes the official INCI name. However, the CTFA occasionally assigns a different name from the one we submit. The correct INCI name would appear when a revised data sheet was issued.
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Q: What type of products do you have for Anti-Aging Hair Care Products?
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A: Croda is please to Launch Keratec™ IFP - a new hair care ingredient proven to protect the hair fiber from environmental aging. It is a unique protein blend of the intact keratin protein and keratin peptides. The combination of these materials provides the hair with complete protection-allowing it to remain youthful from root to tip!
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Q: What type of Keratin proteins do you have?
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A: Keratec™ IFP- ‘Anti-aging & Conditioning Active for Hair’ made from wool obtained in New Zealand. Keratec™ PEP- Hydrolyzed Keratin made from wool obtained in New Zealand, designed for hair care products to help with permanent conditioning. Crotein HKP Powder-Hair Keratin Amino Acids made in Japan from feathers. Crotein WKP-Hydrolyzed Keratin made from wool.
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Q: Why do you say that Crodamol STS is "Superior to Silicone"?
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A: Silicones, when used in high concentrations in emulsion formulations, can compromise the inherent stability of such formulations. Crodamol STS can actually enhance emulsion stability. Crodamol STS feels and functions much the same as silicone as well.
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| Q: What can I use to make hair stronger? |
| A: Keravis, Croda's hair strengthening complex, has been proven via the Flexabrasion test method to triple the strength of bleached hair! Keravis consists of both lower and higher molecular weight components designed to penetrate the hair's cortex and coat the cuticle giving hair fibers the power to resist breakage. |
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| Q: What is 18-MEA? |
| A: 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid is a primary lipid found on the hair fiber's surface. This lipid helps to keep cuticles together and also acts as the surface lipid when a fresh cuticle is revealed, giving lubricity and shine to hair. 18-MEA is easily removed by daily grooming processes and harsher chemical treatments leaving hair dull and unmanageable. |
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| Q: How does the INCROQUAT 18-MEA series benefit human hair? |
| A: The INCROQUAT 18-MEA series can replenish lost 18-MEA lipids back to the hair fiber surface, resulting in lubricious and healthy looking hair. INCROQUAT 18-MEA-40 is designed for shampoo systems or where a liquid is preferred and INCROQUAT BEHENYL 18-MEA is perfect for conditioner systems. |
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| Q: Are the results of the study, “Clinical Studies Prove that Crodaderms Moisturize! “ statistically significant? |
| A: As with most clinical studies sponsored by a supplier, the results reflect a directional trend because of a number of factors, including formulation nuance, the limited number of panelists and the cost of a clinical with sufficient numbers of panelists to draw a statistical conclusion. Every formulation is different. We believe the results are sufficient to merit customer interest to formulate and to justify a clinical study of their own. |
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| Q: Can my customer use a lower level and see the same benefit? |
| A: We cannot make that conclusion. We have not run such a study and the results would depend on several factors. |
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| Q: Are the results of the Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) study statistically significant? |
| A: As with most clinical studies sponsored by a supplier, the results reflect a directional trend because of a number of factors, including formulation nuance, the limited number of panelists and the cost of a clinical with sufficient numbers of panelists to draw a statistical conclusion. Every formulation is different. We believe the results are sufficient to merit customer interest to formulate and to justify a clinical study of their own. |
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| Q: What study was used to compare D-Panthenol to Keravis? |
| A: Croda CCE compared the hair strengthening ability of Keravis and D-Panthenol using a technique called Flexabrasion. This methodology was created by the wool industry to understand fiber strength. It takes into consideration all aspects of brushing ones hair, which is the number one cause of hair breakage. For further information on the Flexabrasion method, please review the following article: Flexabrasion: A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength: J A Swift, S P Chahal, D L Coulson and N I Challoner; Cosmetic and Toiletries Vol. 116, No. 12 p.53-60, December 2001 |
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| Q: You have a lot of emollients. Can the Emollient Toolbox help me? |
| A: YES. It can help you in several ways depending on the project you have. You may read the Art section to learn what emollients do in you application and, in many cases, what to avoid when you formulate. You can also learn about our first-pass suggestions of around 3 emollients to choose for starters. If you are looking for a particular physio-chemical property, check out the Science section for the property you desire. There too, you will see a few Croda emollients to try. |
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| Q: The formulations in the Crodasperse datasheet seem too heavy to be finished formulations. How can my customer use them? |
| A: We have watched one customer apply a small amount of Formula 1 and become impressed with the dry, talc-like feel. They have decided to request a sample of CRODASPERSE. These example formulations can be used as oil phases of emulsion formulations or aerosol concentrates to be pressurized. Since sunscreen formulation is a specialized technology invite you customer to develop his/her special formulation around the Crodasperse/TiO2 blend. Aerosol formulation samples are coming in the meantime. |
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| Q: Why should my customer consider both PROLEVIUM and Phytessence Cotton? Don't they both moisturize? |
| A: Both moisturize. TEWL studies used for PROLEVIUM measure moisturization through one mechanism, that of water loss through the skin. Corneometer measures resident moisture within the skin at the time of measurement. The combination of the two products seems to be a powerful performance duo around the concept of cotton. A vegetable protein and botanical extract further support the naturalness of cotton as a marketing concept. |
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| Q: I notice that PROLEVIUM is widely pH stable. Can my customer use this at pH 3 for a salicylic acid treatment? |
| A: The answer is YES. Please see formula SC-354 in the datasheet. Keep in mind that performance testing is concentration and formulation dependent, among other parameters. We ran TEWL at a skin tolerant pH of around 6 and in a bland carrier so as to show the performance aspect without raising questions as to the effect of the vehicle. Your customer should perform testing on his/her own formula. |
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| Q: Is PROLEVIUM GMO-free? |
| A: Yes. |
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| Q: What is the recommended use level for Fruiliquid Noni? |
| A: Recommended use level is 2-10%. |
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| Q: What part of the plant is used for Fruitliquid Noni extract? |
| A: Fruitliquid Noni extract is derived from the Noni fruit itself. |
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